What Is a Jacket Without a Collar Called? Common Names and Styles Explained

Ever pulled on a jacket and noticed it just… doesn’t have a collar? No lapels, no stand, no fold-over fabric around your neck. It looks clean, modern, maybe even a little rebellious. You might wonder: what’s this thing called? The answer isn’t as simple as you think. There’s no single official name - it depends on the cut, the history, and where you’re standing.

It’s Not One Thing - It’s Many

A jacket without a collar doesn’t have one universal label. Instead, it shows up in different forms across fashion history. Some are functional, some are stylistic, and a few were born out of military need. The name changes based on context.

Take the bomber jacket. Originally designed for pilots in World War I, it had a snug, ribbed knit collar that sat flush against the neck - not a traditional collar you fold down, but a raised band that kept out wind. Today, that’s often called a crew neck or ribbed neck, and it counts as collarless in modern fashion terms because there’s no lapel or stand.

Then there’s the pea coat. Traditional versions have a short, wide collar that flips up, but many modern takes strip that away entirely. You’ll see sleek, minimalist pea coats in urban stores with no collar at all - just a clean neckline. These are often marketed as collarless pea coats or navy-inspired trench jackets.

And let’s not forget the mandarin collar - sometimes mistaken for a collarless design. It’s actually a very short, stand-up collar, barely an inch high. If you’re thinking of something completely bare at the neck, this doesn’t count. But if you’re looking at a jacket with no visible collar whatsoever, you’re likely dealing with one of the styles below.

Common Styles of Collarless Jackets

• Bomber jackets - Ribbed knit neck, often with a zipper. Originally flight gear. Now a streetwear staple.
• Shawl collarless cardigans - Not technically jackets, but often worn as outerwear. The shawl collar wraps around, but if removed, you get a clean, open neckline.
• Modern trench coats - Many brands now offer trench coats without the traditional collar stand. Think minimalism meets functionality.
• Leather moto jackets - Some versions ditch the collar entirely for a smoother, more aggressive look. No stand, no lapel, just clean lines.
• Workwear jackets - Think chore coats or mechanic jackets. Often made with a simple, open neckline to allow for layering under a shirt.

Each of these has a different origin, but they all share one thing: no traditional collar. That’s the common thread. In fashion terms, they’re often called collarless - not because it’s a style name, but because it’s a description.

Why Would Anyone Design a Jacket Without a Collar?

It’s not just about looking cool. There are real reasons designers remove collars.

First, layering. If you’re wearing a turtleneck, a high-neck sweater, or even a scarf, a collar gets in the way. A collarless jacket sits flat against your neck and doesn’t bunch up. It’s practical for people who live in cold cities like Vancouver, where layering is a daily ritual.

Second, clean aesthetics. Minimalist fashion loves clean lines. No collar means no visual interruption at the neckline. It creates a sleek, uninterrupted silhouette - popular in Japanese and Scandinavian design. Think of brands like Uniqlo or C.P. Company. Their collarless jackets look like they were carved from a single block of fabric.

Third, functionality. Military and workwear jackets were never meant to be fashionable. A collarless design reduces material, cuts cost, and avoids snagging on equipment. Even today, many utility jackets for outdoor workers skip the collar because it’s unnecessary.

How to Identify a Collarless Jacket

Not every jacket without a collar is the same. Here’s how to tell what you’re looking at:

1. Check the neckline - Is it a simple cut? A ribbed band? A shawl-like curve? Each tells a different story.
2. Look at the closure - Zippers? Buttons? Snaps? Bombers usually zip. Work jackets often button.
3. Feel the weight - Lightweight cotton? Heavy wool? Leather? Material tells you the intended use.
4. Notice the shoulders - Are they padded? Relaxed? Structured? This helps distinguish a tailored piece from a casual one.

If you see a jacket with a flat, open neckline and no fabric standing up around your neck - that’s your collarless jacket. No fancy term needed. Just call it what it is.

Where to Find Them

You won’t find many collarless jackets in fast fashion stores unless they’re trying to copy a trend. But here’s where to look:

• Japanese brands - Brands like A.P.C., Y-3, and Kolor often experiment with stripped-back silhouettes.
• Workwear specialists - Carhartt, Dickies, and Filson offer collarless chore coats designed for practicality.
• Streetwear labels - Supreme, A-COLD-WALL*, and Stone Island have released collarless bomber variants.
• Secondhand shops - Vintage military jackets from the 1940s-60s often lack collars or have removable ones.

Online, search for: "collarless bomber jacket," "ribbed neck jacket," or "minimalist work jacket." Avoid terms like "no collar" - that’s not how retailers label them.

What to Wear With a Collarless Jacket

Because there’s no collar to compete with, you have more freedom with what’s underneath.

• Turtlenecks - Perfect match. The jacket hugs the neck without crowding it.
• High-neck sweaters - Adds warmth without bulk.
• Shirts with open collars - Lets the jacket’s clean lines shine.
• Scarves - Drape them loosely. No collar means no interference.

Avoid turtlenecks that are too thick or stiff - they’ll push the jacket away from your neck and ruin the fit. Go for soft knits or merino wool.

Common Mistakes

People often buy collarless jackets thinking they’re more versatile. But they’re not always.

• Wearing them in formal settings - A collarless jacket looks too casual for a business meeting or wedding unless it’s a tailored, high-end piece.
• Ignoring fit - Without a collar to anchor the look, the jacket’s fit becomes everything. Too loose? It looks sloppy. Too tight? It pulls awkwardly at the shoulders.
• Choosing the wrong material - A heavy wool collarless jacket in summer? You’ll sweat. A thin cotton one in winter? You’ll freeze.

The best collarless jackets are made for specific seasons and purposes. Don’t treat them like a one-size-fits-all outer layer.

What’s the Real Name?

So what do you call it? Honestly? Collarless jacket is the most accurate term. Fashion doesn’t always give things fancy names - sometimes it just describes them.

Some people say "crew neck jacket," but that’s technically wrong. Crew neck refers to the neckline of a sweater, not a jacket. Others say "turtleneck jacket," but that’s a different garment entirely.

In the end, you don’t need a Latin name or a designer label to understand what you’re wearing. If it’s a jacket with no collar, it’s a collarless jacket. Simple. Clear. And it’s been around longer than you think.

Final Thought

A jacket without a collar isn’t a fashion accident. It’s a deliberate choice - one that’s been made for over a century by soldiers, workers, designers, and everyday people who value simplicity. You don’t need a fancy name to appreciate it. Just wear it well, layer smartly, and know that sometimes, less really is more.